22:30 Tue.
27 Oct, 2020

City of Porto (wine)

,
°C
12:00 am
12:00 am

Next morning (Saturday) it was time to return to Porto, but not before Jakob tried to persuade me for at least half an hour to go swimming with him. Needless to say it was cloudy,  rainy and there were 2m waves., luckily in the end he didn’t do it, but it was close.

After a failed attempt at swimming and yummy breakfast on the beach we took a bus to Santiago. In short what took us 13 days to walk, we did in 8 hours with a bus, train and another bus. Well all in all with waiting for the next form of transport and moving from one bus to another it did take us whole day to get back to Porto.  Though I must say that the train ride from Santiago to Nigran (near Redondela) was really special, as we could watch the villages and fields that we encountered while walking. Now that I think about it, the hiking path follows the train line quite closely.

After arriving to Porto, at around 10pm, we only had time to walk to the closest hostel, take a shower and go to sleep. After so many days sleeping in hostels one would think you get used to them, well, not true. We actually had a talk  with Aljoša, a couple of days ago while hiking, how cool the hostels are, and that from then on we’re going to try to book them more often, when travelling privately. Well the impression was from albergues, where firstly they were half empty and secondly everyone in albergue was there for the exact same reason as everyone else, what’s more we actually befriended a couple of travelers so it was more like an extended group of friends. The hostel in Porto, however was the standard, soulless hostel, I imagined before. There were 18 other strangers, from all over the world who were also older than what we encountered on Camino (40+). I’m sure I must have imagined it, but it felt like everyone was looking at me (us) and I was just waiting when someone is going to try and stab us during the night. Well we survived the night, but for the next two nights I persuaded Jakob to book a private room in a guest house. It actually wasn’t much more expensive than the hostel and the location was even better.

Hostel in the city center of Porto. About 13€ per night. Frankly, I think the guest house we later found was much better and only 2€ more per night.

So enough about sleeping arrangements. We arrived to Porto on Saturday evening and left it on Tuesday afternoon, so we had a couple of days to explore it.  Despite being February, the city was full of tourists, the sun was shining and it was nice and warm. I’ve spent hours just walking through the streets, admiring the old buildings and vistas, while Jakob went to visit a couple of the museums. He bought the “tourist ticket”, which grants you free entrance to some museums and galleries and some discounts in wine cellars. Although I don’t think it was really worth it, from what I gathered from Jakob, he paid more for it than he would if he just paid normal entrance fees. I guess it depends on how quick you are in visiting and how many you visit.

 

What is Porto most known for? Well, Porto wine. If I understood correctly the grapes only ferment for a day, then they mix it with strong spirit that kills all the yeast (or something), and then age it in barrels. You can get is as cheaply as €5 on one hand, while the sky is the limit for really limited and aged ones. Jakob actually went to visit a royal wine cellar where he had a chance to try a sip of Porto wine from 1850 or something like that. For me, I’m not sure I’m such a fan of them, I really don’t like the red / rose ones, I can tolerate the white ones but prefer the normal wine.

Besides wine, we also tried several local delicacies such as pasteis de nata, it’s actually very good, I must have eaten a dozen of them over the days, goes well with coffee or for breakfast with juice. Its some puff pastry with egg yolk cream, if my taste buds are to be believed.

Pastel de nata, you can eat it for breakfast, lunch and dinner. They are really good.

But the most interesting was the dish called francesinha. By description, you would think that this is the worst thing ever, the looks don’t help either, but the taste is actually surprisingly good. So what is it? Well, it’s a toast, with meat and egg, inside a spicy tomato goulash topped with french fries. I know how it sounds, but believe me, it actually is really fantastic.

Besides traditional food, we also found some really cheap fruits and vegetables, for example they were selling strawberries for less than a €1.5 per kilo, so naturally I bought a whole box of them.

Breakfast for the kings.

So what else did we saw in Porto, that is worth mentioning? Well, they have peacocks walking around in the parks, a big house that celebrates cans of sardines, a library that was used for shooting, or was at least inspiration, for Harry Potter movies, oh and the most interesting one, an ancient book store, something from 19th century if I remember correctly, where instead of selling books they focus on selling Porto wine and some baked potatoes things while a guy plays organs (instrument) live. Everything is absurdly extravagant, haha anyway I really recommend visiting.

Besides that you can take a gondola from the bridge to the winery, visit the beach and if you are lucky it’s open. When I was there the waves were so high that the whole beach was closed for public. Me, being me, instead of taking a tourist bus to go sightseeing I just went for a long run and saw most of the city. The city as a whole is really nice, lots of interesting old buildings, lots parks, coffee shops, pastry shops and in the end lots of tourists.

After four days of exploring Porto and stuffing ourselves with their delicious food it was time to return to Slovenia. The whole trip was truly amazing, and the time (and kilometers) just flew by. I’m really hoping on doing something similar again.

We are still debating, how lucky we were with the timing. Firstly, we hit the jackpot with the weather, February is considered the rainiest month, on average it’s pouring rain every day and it was up to a day before we arrived and it started again as we left, secondly we made it back just in time to escape Covid-19, as I think a week later the whole Veneto region went into quarantine.

Measuring temperature, due to Covid-19, at the Venice airport
00:30 Tue.
15 Oct, 2013

Bus

Day 68 , 79 remain
Lulea , Sweden
2 °C
Fair
7:20 am
5:11 pm

Remember the glowing eyes I posted in first post after coming back? Well that was shot just before BBQ. Here are some more pictures. (BTW: Have you guessed who they belonged to?)

Fox in Lofoten
Fox in Lofoten

I don’t remember ever seeing fox outside zoo and this one was as you can see really close. Funny thing is that it wasn’t afraid of people. Sure it ran away when I tried to get closer, but never too far away that I couldn’t see her.

Fox came to around 2m distance and was not afraid of humans.
Fox came to around 2m distance and was not afraid of humans.

Anyway BBQ after “fox hunting” wasn’t anything special; chatting, eating … usual stuff. After BBQ around 9’o clock it was dark already so I decided to go a bit away from camp and take some pictures of the sky. As I said before camp was located away from the city and there was no civilization toward north to pollute air with light. I made a short hike on a nearby hill, laid down on my back and watch the stars. After few moments my eyes adapted to darkness and I could see sky covered with billions of little dots – stars and galaxies. Night was cold and quiet, somewhere in the distance I could hear dog(s) hauling…

Stars above Lofoten.
Stars above Lofoten.
Stars over mountains and lakes.
Stars over mountains and lakes.

Next morning and by morning I mean 5’o clock, we woke up and went to the other side of the lake to admire sunrise. Despite being relatively warm during the day it looks like nights were below zero because we could see frozen ponds and frost was all over grass. Soon after we reached our destination sky turned pink and then purple, it was spectacular. Sadly we were behind a hill so we couldn’t see actual sun rising up. Bad miscalculation!

Never have I seen such beautiful colors of the sky.
Never have I seen such beautiful colors of the sky.

At 10’o clock same day we went on a bus tour of islands. Sky was getting cloudy as we departed and it began to rain after a while. We were basically driving whole day, around islands, from time to time stopping to see beach or some other point of interest (usually another beach). Once we saw the biggest Viking house in the world, but sadly we didn’t stopped to look it closely, but just drove by (still don’t know why all the haste).

Me seeing (and touching) Atlantic ocean for the first time.
Me seeing (and touching) Atlantic ocean for the first time.

At the end we stopped in Reine where we saw some weird contraption for drying herring (or some other fish, I don’t remember). There we got a chance to buy some postcards as well. Here was first time I came to realisation just how expensive Norway is. For 5 postcards with stamps I spent around 15€.

Drying cod fish
Drying cod fish
The most famous fjord in Lofoten: Reine
The most famous fjord in Lofoten: Reine

In retrospect nothing special happened on the bus trip and it would be the same if we would skip it. Luckily weather cleared toward evening (when we came back) so we were able to go on a short walk around the town. Actually it wasn’t just some random walk, but we were searching for a beginning of path on a hill spanning over the town. Some people went up there in the morning and supposedly the view over sunrise was spectacular. Naturally we were planning to do the same trip next morning. After about 2h of searching we gave up and asked some random guy who then led us to the path. Again I must point out how nice the people were, he walked with us for about 10minutes to get to the beginning of path.

After that we looked for mail-box from where I could send postcards and went home. It was 9’o clock when we were asleep.

12:39 Tue.
8 Oct, 2013

Lofoten islands

Day 61 , 86 remain
Lulea , Sweden
10 °C
Fair
7:01 am
5:32 pm

We gathered at LTU on Friday evening. Despite light rain we were all cheerful and looking forward to the trip. I decided to only bring my backpack, so somehow I had to cram all my clothes, bed lining, food and camera in it. Backpack isn’t that big so I ended up sacrificing my clothes, only bringing with me 2 shirts. Mobile phone charger, toothpaste and shampoo were sacrificed as well. Luckily others brought big suitcases full of stuff, so I was able to borrow toothpaste etc. from them.

When entering a bus I was pleasantly surprised. Bus was equipped with free Wi-Fi (even in Norway) and electricity sockets. I was kind of sorry I didn’t bring my laptop with me. When we all boarded the bus, driver greeted us (in surprisingly good English) and told us some info about the trip. Soon after the ride began, he put a movie – Inglorious bastards, on bus TV. I really wasn’t expecting to ever see this move in such a place.

After 4 hours of driving we stopped for the first time in Kiruna. We raided toilets in local gas station and some people bought something to eat. Shortly after we continued. In about 2 hours we reached Norway’s border. The landscape changed dramatically, from wilderness with forests everywhere, to landscape full of fjords. Downside (although I don’t see any upsides) of riding only at night is that you don’t see any landscape through the window. We did another short stop near islands, where we picked up our guide. I didn’t quite understand the story but I think she is Icelander doing I don’t know what in Norway, but lives in Lulea … it doesn’t really matter.

The ride on the islands continued for about 4 more hours. Sadly I couldn’t fell asleep during bus ride, at least not until very end. And that’s a pity, Last hour of ride sun started to rise up. It was the most beautiful sunrise over the islands and untouched nature, I’ve ever seen. Sadly I fell asleep in next second, just to be woken up in 20 minutes when we reached our apartment area (I’ll refer to it as camp side in the future).

Total driving time (with stops included) was exactly 12h, from Friday 7PM to Saturday 7AM.

Cabins where we slept in Lofoten
Cabins where we slept in Lofoten
Cabins were overlooking the nearby lake. The views were breathtaking.
Cabins were overlooking the nearby lake. The views were breathtaking.
View from the cabins
View from the cabins

When we disembarked we brought luggage to our cabins. And I must say cabins looked great. They were all made from wood with enormous windows (whole side wall was a window) and great view over the lake.

There was no time to rest, when we unpacked we had a “Norwegian” breakfast in main building and then we were off to town centre. Oh I forgot to tell in which town we were staying: Svolvær.

I’ve decided to make a lot of smaller posts instead of a big one in favour of optimisation and faster webpage load time. So To be continued in next post.

07:07 Tue.
1 Oct, 2013

Haven't slept in ages

Day 54 , 93 remain
Lulea , Sweden
0 °C
Mostly Cloudy
6:40 am
6:00 pm

Now (at 7 AM) I’ve arrived from a 4 days long trip to Norway. The trip was amazing and I think worth every penny, though it was very exhausting. In 4 days I think I only slept for 15h altogether. For some reason I couldn’t sleep on the bus toward islands, on the way back I was so tired that I managed to shut my eyes for around 4h.

I’ll go in to more detail in future posts (during weekend) when I’ll upload a big load of picture (I took around 500 of them). For now it’s enough to know that islands are really as beautiful as they say and that Norway is incredibly expensive country.

2 teaser pictures.
For now I’ll let you wonder what it is. Let me just say it’s not a dog or a cat.

Eyes in darkness. What could it be?
Eyes in darkness. What could it be?
From left: Me, Slavek and Mikel.
From left: Me, Slavek and Mikel.